![]() In pair 29 the lace goes straight from eyelet to eyelet through the loop that holds up the tongue. I made a loop in the tongue of pair 29, after it was finished, which I thought complemented its casual appearance. One problem with the oxford design is that the tongue falls down easily, so it needs to be sewn to the liner or somehow supported. When oxfords fit, the quarters usually meet in the center (see pair 19 on the home page) and you never see a diagonal lace, if one is needed. With an odd number, it means the lace has to go diagonally once to complete the proper oxford looping lacing pattern. Since it’s a size 38, quite a bit smaller than the size 42 of pair 29, I cut a pair of eyelets. I learned something interesting this time about how the number of eyelets affects the lacing pattern on oxfords. It has a veg-tan toe cap, veg-tan insole and footbed liner, but rubber Vibram Gumlite sole. It’s made from veg-tan cow (blue) and veg-tan calf (black). Light, versatile, good looking and good ventilation. This is the second revision of a pattern I’ve been working on. That’s because they are 100X cooler than any other ladies bike-styled shoes! (Hello firefighters…) Note the 100X on the heel. When you’re burning some rubber on your bike, or stamping out your camp fire, you’ll need these soles to protect you. These shoes are unlined and feature the same Italian vegetable tanned upper as the ExIT Cycle shoes, but with a killer firefighter Vibram sole. Many wished it was currently picnic weather so they could wear them some more. While these were no picnic to produce, I’ve gotten positive feedback from all the testers who took tried them out. Making high heel shoes is especially challenging for the small shoemaker because it requires a lot of specialized material, or a lot of engineering on the shoemaker’s part. These shoes have the same general styling colors as the ExIT Cycle shoes, but done in a 2″ heel. Other than the perforation pattern, which was common on classic bicycle touring shoes, there’s nothing really “bike” about them – no special equipment required! You just get on your bike and ride.Īnyone who’s been around me or my shop over the last several months knows these have been on my mind. There's also a thread on the "Crispin Colloquy", a shoemaker's forum (which I think that DWFII might have helped to found, or at least contributed to quite a bit) about the history of pegged soles.I wanted to make these for Momentum’s Magazine’s Bike fashion show as part of Fashion Week here in Portland, but there were no models available in the size I was planning to make. Ron Rider also chimed in with some good info a few posts later: But as said here, it is also a fast way of making the waist so the method could be used both as a time saver and a reinforcer. Historically, at least in Sweden, pegged waists and full pegged footwear where mostly made on the country side and in the cities for workers. Mostly the shank/waist area where reinforced with a piece of sole leather, which still is in practice by many London makers, the pegs added strength to the waist. In the "old" days it made a difference because the steel shank was not yet common. There's an old thread on SF about shoes with pegged soles/waists:Ī sewed waist is more flexible then a pegged, on most footwear that doesn't matter much but on footwear made for heavy duty a "rigid" pegged waist is preferable. But I suppose that has to be taken within context, if you are making boots for thousands, something has to give so it might have been a best bang for the buck kind of thing. DFWII has done full pegged boots but also refers to studies by the US military at in the mid to late 1800's that examined all forms of fastening from pegs to screws and the conclusion to move away from pegged (and screwed) construction. Very few makers use full pegged construction or any pegged construction at all (AH makers mostly). Over time, nails can rust, loosen and fail. ![]() The lemonwood pegs swell and contract as well and the argument is that it imparts better structural integrity versus nails. Additionally, leather is dynamic and swells and contracts in response to sweat and moisture. Cowboy boots have pegs in the waist and heel with hand welting in the forefoot. ![]() Practical aspects for using pegs include the arguement that it imparts far more rigidity in the waist for something like a cowboy boot where it is needed in the stirrups. There is a historical context for the use of pegged construction that carries through to today as alluded to above by W walker
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